Yes, the skim coat will take care of this problem. Rick Brown, President, Advantage Drywall Systems Inc., Orange, CA Step 5: Roll on topping and trowel smooth. Step 4: Roll on all-purpose mud and trowel smooth. Step 3: Coat nails (if popped) and fill larger holes that won’t cover with two coats. You can be firm with the sanding and it will not damage the base surface that you are trying to reach. It will shred it, leaving a firm surface that will not blister. We use 60 grit sandpaper to sand off the top layer of paper. Step 2: There are a few layers of brown paper that will blister if not removed. Step 1: Start off by removing as much loose paper as you can with a 6" knife. A wider tool-up to a limit-is better because there are fewer overlap trowel marks. A plasterer would use a trowel, a drywaller a knife. Once the paper is removed-by whatever means used-roll an adhesion intermediary over the whole area and plaster it with a skim coat of veneer plaster or drywall compound. This holds moisture at the paper instead of it being sucked through the wall and dissipated. Chokey, Vice President, Sharp Interiors, Inc., South Bend, INįirst, because wallpaper is typically a bear to get off-scraping, release fluids, steamers and a lot of vulgarities, here’s a better idea: Skim coat the paper (especially if it is installed over plaster) with drywall compound. This greatly reduces skimming, sanding and mess.-David E. You can sponge off the remaining residue. Spraying light coats of the solution on the glue until you can feel it breaking down is the point where you begin scraping off and disposing. Removing all glue with pump sprayer, hot water and paste removing soap is the answer. The reaction is so adverse that you can never be sure of the bond. Jonathan Diepstra, Estimator, The Bouma Corporation, Grand Rapids, MI After the Durabond has set, I would take my 14" knife and skim the surface with topping and lightly sand, making the wall ready for paint. There always is a little glue residue that will cause the surface to bubble up especially after paint is applied. I would use Durabond with a 14" knife and apply a skim coat for my first coat. Kirk Lewis, President, Kirk Lewis Drywall L.L.C., Gladstone, MO When that happens you have to sand cut and skim many times to get the same results. I’ve tried to just skim the walls with quick set or topping but it seems to lift the paper and create a large number of bubbles and blisters. You may get a very small amount of bubbles if so, cut them out, touch up with quick set, then finish coat. When it dries I usually skim the walls with a quick-setting compound and then a finish coat with a topping finishing compound. On extremely separated papered areas it may take two coats. This will soak into the paper and cause it to bond to a hard surface. I’ve repaired more of this than I like but the best way I’ve found, mainly for larger areas, is to first roll a coat of shellac on the stripped areas. What’s the best approach? Is a 12" knife large enough? There shouldn’t be any moisture problems from the mud causing the glue to separate from the wall surface. There's little damage to the drywall surface most of the top layer of wallpaper has been removed. You will need to skim coat the entire area to repair the walls. Here is an example of a Level 5 grade install and how this guy goes about it (uses a roller and really thin joint compound - not ready mix).March 2007 Your customer has removed the wallpaper in a large area that includes a stairway, hallways, a foyer and a small room. Yes skim coating is OK if you want to spend an ornate amount of time doing it, you have practices the technique many times and you have the innate artistic ability to do the job. If you are finishing with an oil based paint your second coat should be a primer made for oil based paints. Put on two very thick layers of PVC primer. If you lightly sand it you will notice ridges and edges even after painting. To make things not have an edge, you will probably sand all of the skim coat off. What will happen if you try to skim coat your wall? These are very high end services that most professional drywallers can't provide. There are professionals that skim coat entire walls to have a truly "flat" wall. You should only be using it to fill divots or major flaws. In general if your drywalled walls have been finished - means the gaps are filled and sanded then no you should not be adding extra joint compound as a DIYer.Īdding more compound - especially the ready mix which is too thick and dry - is basically ruining the flat look of your walls.
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